Saturday, March 3, 2012

Lanvin: Alber Elbaz's Edgy Anniversary

Fashion celebrated one of its most important voices Friday night, March 2, in Paris when Alber Elbaz staged his tenth anniversary show for Lanvin, a tigerish display of protective seductionellent work that has been sought afte.

Waiters served slices from towering birthday cakes pre-show to the assembled mass of 1,500 fashion editors and insiders on the extended runway in Halle Freyssinet, as paparazzi swarmed around snapping the movie stars and musicians come to pay homage to Elbaz, one of the half dozen most influential designers in the world this past decadethe catwalks at span class='yshortcuts'.

Never one to rest on his laurels, Elbaz took his evocative style somewhere new in an opening composed mainly of curvaceous neoprene cocktails and coat dresseson University on Thursday, . Cut like chess pieces, finished well above the knee, dissected by sturdy belts and made in tough chic colors of deep purple and sunset yellows, it made for a dramatic openingw_1330604647_0'Kingston University/.

Suddenly changing gears, Elbaz sent out elaborately embellished suits, finished with fist sized crystals, amber nuggets, and metallic chains and laceoduce luxury clothes, shoes a. Though the key detail was the fierce tiger head that growled on hefty amulets and belt bucklesion and bio-waste,' sai.

Elbaz is famed for his hands-on draping and industrious search for a romantic flowing style, though for this decade-anniversary he gave the clothes a notably tougher finishther orange peel dresses will be worn in the .

Burnished gold swing coats, exaggerated fiery red paisley cocktails and emerald fox stoles exemplified the more assertive attitudeewable raw materials derived from. Boldly streaked floral dresses and graphic fur coats drew an avalanche of cheers and clapping from the audience perched on the 100 yard long bleachers on either side of the black concrete catwalkashion course director at Kingston Universi.

Born in Casablanca, though raised in Morocco, Elbaz in his ten years at Lanvin, has taken a sleepy French institution and remade it into one of the most influential labels in the world alone produces nearly five times as much . After seven years in the studio of Geoffrey Beene, and stints as the designer of Guy Laroche and Yves Saint Laurent, Elbaz arrived at Lanvin in October 2001, reviving an old family label to star status has a high environmental footprint, .

His frayed hems, quixotic sense of style, subtly surreal silhouette and use of bold insignia and ceremonial medallions are deeply embedded in today's fashion codesented jewellery made from biodegradabl. Few designers have more defined the style of our times, for both men and women, even if this show felt as if Elbaz was trying a bit too hard to celebrate this fashion birthday, asking students to create designs that show . All the same, he has probably dressed more major actresses than any of his rivals, and that's without giving any clothes away, as many brands do via their New York and Los Angeles publicistsuts' id='lw_1330604647_1'Paris F.

'It's been a special ten yearsass='yshortcuts' id='lw_. But tonight is about the past and also the futureDON (Reuters) - Could 'green' be the new black? . Looking at romance in a new way,' Elbaz said, after he took his encore by singing the first half of 'Que Sera Sera,' on a stage backed up by the symphonic dance band Pink Martinits rose to the challenge and .

As cabaret singer and drag queen Joey Arias finished off the Elbaz's song intro, the designer took an extended tour, to a noisy standing ovation, before the audience began dancing into the wee hours - feting a unique fashion voice.



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Friday, March 2, 2012

Dior's autumn ballet brings light step to Paris

Iconic Dior with a modern twist: the French house sent out a polished, sweetly feminine collection in Paris on Friday that swept aside the hum of fashionista chatter about John Galliano's succession.

Headlining day four of the Paris runway shows for autumn-winter, the collection overseen by Galliano's former right-hand man Bill Gaytten comes a year after the designer was sacked in disgrace over a drunken, racist outburst.

Since his chaotic departure Dior has insisted time and time again it is in no rush to name a successor, sending out a string of confident catwalk looks that cannily rework classic Dior fashion codes -- and have kept sales booming.

Friday's show in Paris' Rodin Museum was no exception, as Gaytten showcased 1950s-inspired silhouettes in nipped-waist dresses with gently bouffant, or swishing pleated skirts, under little jackets cinched with black belts.

'We took an iconic Dior look, crossed with a slight ballerina theme, and made it more contemporary, taking away unnecessary detail to concentrate on fall and colour and texture,' the British designer explained backstage.

Masculine tailoring -- wool jackets and sleeveless bodices, some pierced with twists of leather -- was matched with ballerina-light mid-calf skirts in aerial organza or silk, from taupe or aubergine to plum or rose blush.

Sheer silk was worked into the pleats of an olive-grey dress, or covered the collarbones or back of an evening gown, picking up on Dior's haute couture show in January, which played entirely on layers of transparency.

From blacks and navies -- encrusted with crystal embellishments for evening -- the palette swept up to the softest pink, via what Dior called 'Rothko smudged colours', in the coloured bands of a long wool coat for example.

Friday's show capped a renewed burst of fashion world speculation putting a string of top designers in the wings at Dior.

Dior chief executive Sidney Toledano repeated afterwards, with a patient smile, that no announcement was on the cards.

'First we have to plough the furrow, sow the seeds,' he said when asked about a possible timeline for an appointment -- though he did concede, jokingly, that 'the oven is warm.'

The ever-busy fashion rumour mill, now boosted by the power of Twitter, went into overdrive last week with the news that Raf Simons was leaving Jil Sander to make way for a return of the house's founder.

The discreet, avant-gardist Belgian had been tipped as a possible successor to the flamboyant Galliano.

Barely had that flurry of excitement simmered down, than it was succeeded by a fresh burst of Dior-related chatter.

Christopher Kane had to rule himself out in an interview with British Vogue, after online rumours linked the Scottish designer to the job.

The magazine later reported that a bouquet had arrived at Dior HQ addressed to Haider Ackermann -- the Colombian-born designer who was linked with the job following Galliano's departure -- another tidbit gleefully relayed on Twitter.

'The fashion world likes to build up the pressure -- it's all part of the game, the search for the next new thing,' Toledano told AFP.

'Since we won't comment, people feel justified in launching rumours,' he said seen, (Reporting by Nina Chestne. 'But I don't mind it, it's not damaging.'

The crown jewel of Bernard Arnault's luxury empire, Dior posted a turnover of 705 million euros ($890 million) for the first three quarters of 2011, up 21 percent on the period in 2010.

Proof, Toledano said, that the house is thriving with an offer pitched at 'the highest level' of fashion, with Dior couture creating a thousand top-end craftsman jobs in 2011 alone.

Dior plays on classic ballet with signature looks

PARIS (Reuters) - Christian Dior presented a toned-down version of elegance for autumn/winter on Friday, as the atelier's signature silhouette of full skirts and cinched waists took on a ballet-like flair.

Neutral tones of champagne and dusty pink, along with warmer aubergine and rich charcoal, dominated a collection which was high on femininity and was classic Dior.

A dove grey silk dress featured copious panels of lightweight fabric in the skirt that caught the air as the model walked the catwalk set up in the garden of the Rodin Museum.

'It's still very Christian Dior but cleaned up and still very elegant,' designer Bill Gaytten told reporters backstageike most Fashion Week-related agreements, subj. Gaytten has been at the creative helm of the ultra-luxe fashion house since John Galliano was fired a year ago after making anti-Semitic slurs in public.

Dior, which is part of the luxury conglomerate LVMH, has yet to announce a permanent replacement, but executives are keeping mum.

'Things aren't done in a hurry,' said Dior Chairman and Chief Executive Sidney Toledano backstage, declining to comment on when a replacement might be named and adding that sales were up 22 percent in 2011 and had surpassed a billion euros.

'The brand is selling wellnternational Ltd, For prominent mod. Sales are very good.'

Gaytten described his ready-to-wear collection as 'less graphic and more tonal' that was easy to wear8504_7'Fashion Week/span last Sept. Cashmere, brushed mohair and leather in jackets imparted depth in pairings with full silk skirts, always cut below the knee and full with fabric.

Houndstooth prints were deconstructed for a less severe, more feminine look, and embroidery found its way onto silk dresses, skirts and jackets.

Antique rose silk organza flowed from a floor-length evening gown whose bodice was an oversize satin bow tied like an obi sash.

Necklines often incorporated dramatic twists of fabric across the shoulders with tight mock turtlenecks underneath, some in heavily encrusted sequined fabric.

Dior's former head of design for menswear, Hedi Slimane, was just named as the new creative director for Yves Saint Laurent, owned by luxury and retail group PPR.

(Additional reporting by Pascale Denis)



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Charlotte Casiraghi named new face of Gucci

Princess of Monaco and daughter of Caroline of Monaco, Charlotte Casiraghi, aged 25, will be the new face of Guccit the bottom and shiny . Rumors were emerging during the third day of the Paris Fashion Week (February 28 - March 7) and the choice was finally confirmed by the Italian house to fashion publication Elle.fr.

Casiraghi follows in the footsteps of Evan Rachel Wood and Natasha Poly, who have also represented the fashion brand.

A young equestrian show jumper, she has been called a natural choice for the brand since she has attended several editions of the Gucci Masters -- including the last edition (December 3-5, 2011) where she competed in the International Jumping Competition.

 



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Thursday, March 1, 2012

Balmain's Liz Taylor Baroque

Fashion likes nothing more than a sizzling succession, which is what the second collection by Olivier Rousteing achieved on Thursday, March 1, in Paris - a juicily lean hit that had punch panache and a red hot whiff of the excitingly new of the ready-to-wear fa. In a word, a star is bornto soft, Robin Hood boot.

Rousteing apparently already designed much of the house's collections, even under Balmain's previous creative director Christophe Decarnin who is hopefully returning soon to the Parisian fashion sceneeaux Arts school on t.

For his debut, Rousteing looked across the Atlantic to the very definition of American glamour - Elizabeth Taylor, melding her self indulgence in jewelry and fashion into his own rock and roll rococo sentiments and the result was some sensational looking clothesn-winter show at the Beaux Arts school on .

Scores of European designers have gone to the U.S, The 30-year-old said he sought to blend o. to find inspiration for their collections, though they general get their input from Los Angeles cinema or the New York music and art scenemir Doma/span whisked span class='yshortcut. Rousteing, however, got an injection on a recent trip to the Big Apple led him to visit the Liz Taylor personal wardrobe auction sale at Christie's and late night drop in's at New York's outpost of famous Parisian nightlife destination, Le Baronts with a folded trim, or paired with pointed .

And in sync with his short but steep rise at the Parisian fashion house, he turned around the cues he took home in record time to turn out a stellar 80's inspired hit fall 2012 collection which will have the retailers yearning for moreng designers, Later Wednesday. A mere short four weeks after he saw Taylor's diamond encrusted palazzo nightgowns, he managed to pump out a tough chic black leather collection, highlighted gorgeous embroidery dripping column dresses and baggy pantsts and ample skirts wer.

Designs ranged from chess piece shaped cocktails dissected with myriads of tine peals and emblazoned with floral carpet motifs to his new square cut authoritative jackets suede and leather, span class='ysho.

Though his finest moment was an emerald green series of super fine velvets, cut with wrought iron lattice motifs, used in lean pants and cool boxy tunicswere overlaid with apron-like breastpla. Taylor would have loved that moment, which climaxed a great show in the gilded splendor of Paris' Hotel Intercontinental Later Wednesday the first big names take to th. Thousands of other women will too.



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Balenciaga does "The Office" for Paris fashion week

PARIS (Reuters) - Balenciaga gave the fashion world a high-style, highly finished glimpse at corporate glamour on Thursday in a fashion show set in an office tower featuring voluminous shapes and blocks of color.

Playing with finishes from shiny to matte that incorporated leather, wool and silk, designer Nicolas Ghesquiere paired bold flashes of citrus or electric blue with reflective blacks and grays for a modern, futuristic look.

Form-fitting dresses of leather and silk featured panels of color and texture -- shocking red at the bottom and shiny black silk at the bodice, cut in two by a swathe of cream and black printed fabric.

Blouson-type pants were roomy at the hips and narrowed at the ankle in a parachute-type fabric, at once both structured and flowing, and imparting an early 1980s vibe on the Fall/Winter ready-to-wear collection.

Balenciaga, now owned by French luxury group PPR, is one of the great 20th century couture labels which showed its first Paris collection in 1937 under founder Cristobal Balenciaga, who was born in the Basque region of Spain.

Called 'Fashion's Picasso' by no less than Cecil Beaton, Balenciaga introduced the bubble skirt and other defining designs in the postwar decades and dressed the who's who of the well-heeled elite.

The label, which has enjoyed a revival since the 1997 hiring of Ghesquiere, held its collection on the 27th floor of a modern office tower with a stunning view over Parisclass='yshortcuts' i. Models walked down make-shift runways highlighted by neon spotlights in the floors.

The interplay of textures and a penchant for shine was also seen at Guy Laroche on Wednesday, as designer Marcel Marongiu showed sheer black blouses, full with volume, paired with boucle pants or skirts, and roomy dresses whose draping evoked a 1920s elegance.

TINY WAISTS, FULL HIPS

At Carven, designer Guillaume Henry chose a bold palette of colors from mustard to red in flamboyant prints, inspired by Medieval Dutch painter Hieronymus Boschalks at span class='yshortcuts' id='lw_13306. One trapeze skirt was sewn in fabric woven into a scene of rural farm life in the Middle Ages.

'We still wanted it to be young and fresh and appealing,' Henry told Reuters TV, saying the collection was geared to a city girl who liked the historical look of tiny waists and full hips.

Carven, which opened its first boutique in Paris early last year, is enjoying a burst of popularity and has become one of the new darlings of fashion editors after the couture label that began after World War One lost its luster in the 1980s.

Prints were also front and center at Rochas on Wednesday, as creative director Marco Zanini, inspired by the early 20th century Swedish ceramics artist Wilhelm Kage, took muted bronze, blue and brown tones and combined them in geometric prints.

The results, according to the collection notes, rest on 'hand work, exquisite execution and a certain disregard for the notion of 'quiet good taste'.'

(Additional reporting by Cindy Martin and Alexandria Sage; Writing by Alexandria Sage; Editing by Patricia Reaney)



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London fashion students hail green as the new black

LONDON (Reuters) - Could 'green' be the new black? Perhaps only if you can imagine wearing stilettos made from pistachio nuts and coffee beans and clothes from orange peel, fungi and mould.

While the fashion pack are hitting the catwalks at Paris Fashion Week, students at London's Kingston University have taken up the challenge of trying to lower the industry's carbon footprint by using biodegradable materials to produce luxury clothes, shoes and accessories for home and car interiors.

The fashion industry has a high environmental footprint.

The manufacture of synthetic fibres like polyester alone produces nearly five times as much carbon dioxide per kilogram as some organic cotton and more than twice as much as hemp, according to a Stockholm Environment Institute study.

According to waste industry reports, more than one million tonnes of textiles are thrown away every year, with most going to landfill and only 25 percent recycled.

InCrops, an initiative based at the University of East Anglia, sponsored the Kingston fashion project, asking students to create designs that show renewable raw materials derived from crops can be used to create low or zero carbon fashion.

A range of futuristic fabrics, garments, and designs will be unveiled at an event at Kingston University on Thursday.

Apart from stilettos made from pistachio shells and coffee beans, designs include a wood-chip corset by British designer Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse, which was unveiled at London Fashion Week last September and modelled by singer Pixie Lott in Vogue.

Other designs include a bodice made from orange peel by Hoyan Ip and scented jewellery made from biodegradable plastic.

'InCrops' interest in the luxury sector gave us a steep challenge as many fashion practitioners have failed to successfully communicate the relationship between fashion and bio-waste,' said Nancy Tilbury, MA Fashion course director at Kingston University.

'Our students rose to the challenge and produced excellent work that has been sought after by musical artists and the fashion press.'

Designers have made progress in recent years in bringing organic cotton and recycled materials to the high street, but whether orange peel dresses will be worn in the future remains to be seen.

(Reporting by Nina Chestney, editing by Paul Casciato)



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