Friday, June 8, 2012

Cardin to show new collection in Belgrade this weekend

French designer Pierre Cardin will present a new haute couture collection in the palace of Serbia's crown prince Aleksandar II Karadjordjevic, the palace media service said Thursday.

'He will personally present a new collection of some 200 designs' on Saturday in Belgrade, a spokeswoman of the Karadjordjevic family, which plays mainly a social role in Serbia which is a republic, told AFP.

Cardin, 89, is due to arrive in Serbia's capital Friday, she added.

Italian-born Cardin has been a trailblazer in a career that has spanned more than six decades. He was one of the first designers to bring Western style to Asia and one of the first to develop brand licensing.

His name now adorns hundreds of products worldwide: from shirts to bottled water to furniture.

He announced in 2011 that he was looking for a buyer for his label -- so long as he retained artistic control and received the one billion euros he insists the company is worth.



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Thursday, June 7, 2012

Lydia Maurer succeeds India's Arora at Paco Rabanne

Twenty-nine-year-old designer Lydia Maurer has been named artistic director for womenswear at Paco Rabanne, where she will take over from India's Manish Arora, the Spanish fashion house said.

Born to a Colombian mother and German father, Maurer worked for both Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy before becoming studio design director for Paco Rabanne in late 2011, the Paris-based house said in a statement Wednesday.

'Her determination and her sensitivity in terms of the artistic and experimental universe of Paco Rabanne are going to enable us to pursue the renewal of our house in the long term,' it said.

The house, owned by Spanish fashion giant Puig, amicably parted last month with the flamboyant Arora, whose two seasons at the house marked the relaunch of its womenswear line after a five-year-hiatus.

Maurer said in the statement it was 'a great honour to be taking on the artistic direction of such an emblematic house'.

Its Spanish founder Paco Rabanne, 'invented a timeless, unique and sensual style inspired by art and architecture.'

Rabanne launched his label in 1966, making a name for his use of unconventional materials from metal to plastic, before stepping down in 2000.

The house's new German designer, whose own esthetic was shaped by the art of the 1960s and 1970s, will show her first spring/summer collection at Paris Fashion Week in October.



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Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Gisele Bundchen launches shantytown model search

Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen on Tuesday launched a contest to discover new talent in Brazil's shantytowns, promising to reward the winner with a modeling contract.

'I feel privileged to be the sponsor of this project,' Bunchen said, recalling that she had been rejected by 42 agents in London at the start of her career, when she was only 17.

'I was finally taken on on the 43rd try,' said the now 34-year-old, on hand for the contest launch with 30 women aged 18 to 22 vying for fame and fortune.

The contest is organized by the Central Union of Slums (CUFA) and a beauty products maker and aims 'to boost slum dwellers's self-esteem.'

'You have to know your good side for photos... to feel comfortable in your own skin to be beautiful and to have a lot of perseverance,' she told contestants.

In a second phase of the challenge, a jury will choose one model from each of Brazil's 27 states. The final will be held in Rio in August or September.

'Even if she is white, Bundchen's being here is important because she is from Brazil where there is great racial diversity and she is renowned worldwide,' contestant Rafaella Lemes, 19, from Rocinha shantytown, told AFP.

Annual summer fashion shows in Rio that opened on May 22 with bikini collections celebrating beach fun were marred this year by protests against the underrepresentation of black models on the catwalks.



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Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Olsens named Womenswear Designer of the Year at CFDA awards

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen were named Womenswear Designer of the Year at the CFDA Awards on Monday, June 4. 

The celebrity designing duo, following 2011 winners Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler, were recognized at the New York event by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) for their work on their fashion line The Row at the annual awards ceremony. 

Johnny Depp was the recipient of the Fashion Icon award for his signature style of dressing which fashion designer Diane Von Fürstenberg simply described as 'Hot', though the 48-year-old actor was not there to claim his prize in person.  

Philip Lim took the Swarovksi Award for Emerging Talent in Menswear, while the prize for Menswear Designer of the Year went to Billy Reid. US-based French designer took the Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Womenswear after missing out on the award two years in a row. Altuzarra was also the beneficiary of the $300,000 CFDA/Vogue Fashion handed out last November.

Other winners at the CFDA Awards were as follows:

Menswear Designer of the Year: Billy Reid

Accessories Designer of the Year: Reed Krakoff

Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in WomenswearJoseph Altuzarra

Swarovksi Award for Emerging Talent in Menswear: Phillip Lim

Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Accessories: Tabitha Simmons

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Tommy Hilfiger

International Award: Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons

Founders Award, in honor of Eleanor Lambert: Andrew Rosen

Media Award, in honor of Eugenia Sheppard: Scott Schuman and Garance Doré

Fashion Icon Award: Johnny Depp



 



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Sunday, June 3, 2012

Christian Lacroix ballet designs go on display in France

A new exhibit presenting the work of French couturier Christian Lacroix will open in June, focused around his costume designs for a ballet staged last autumn in Paris.

The exhibition, held in a museum devoted entirely to the world of stage costumes and sets -- the CNCS (Centre national du costume de scène et de la scénographie) in the town of Moulins, France -- lets visitors see the costumes designed by Lacroix for La Source, presented last year in Paris. In addition to presenting the actual costumes in the context of the stage performance, the exhibition traces the process behind their creation -- from the drawing and maquette stage through the labor-intensive fabrication in the costume workshops to the end result put on stage.

A central part of the exhibition is based around the costumes of Djemil and Nouredda, the two main characters of the ballet. The story's fantasy world with hints of orientalism and folk culture required the designer to work in a wide range of styles and materials including tutus in Japanese organza, tunics and loose pants made from vintage saris, ethnic dresses and accessories adorned with Swarovski crystal.

The exhibition, which opens June 16 and runs through December 31, will also reveal Lacroix's various sources of inspiration including documents, photos and historical designs, as well as present all the sketches he created for the cast's costumes.

http://www.cncs.fr/







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Saturday, June 2, 2012

L'Oréal heir set to debut menswear line this summer

The inaugural collection of the Exemplaire label, co-founded by Jean-Victor Meyers, grandson of Liliane Bettencourt of the L'Oréal cosmetics company, and Louis Leboiteux, is set to be in stores in the coming month.

When contacted by Relaxnews, the label stated that no precise date could be given at this time but that the collection would be shown in a media presentation and have its retail launch in June.

Initially created in February, Exemplaire's collection will consist mainly of articles in cashmere including sweaters, jackets and scarves. Basing its designs around a classic aesthetic, the brand will also sell trendier peices like Teddy-style jackets.

Currently, the label's website indicates four retailers that will carry the collection -- in New York, Beverly Hills, London and Paris.



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Friday, June 1, 2012

Fashion plaudits for Queen Elizabeth's impeccable style

For a fashion designer it is a unique task: dressing a woman who must be immediately recognisable from Antigua to Zimbabwe, visible from a distance, bright, dignified and immune to wardrobe malfunctions.

But the series of dressers who have worked with Queen Elizabeth II have helped her evolve a personal style that wins praise from unlikely quarters, including from a young French designer who worked for a decade with Jean Paul Gaultier.

'She has her own style and it works extremely well for her,' Alexandre Vauthier told AFP. 'It's really her DNA.

'She is the only person to dress this way, which makes her instantly recognisable.'

The 86-year-old monarch's diamond jubilee this weekend marks 60 years of travelling, handshaking, and meeting global leaders as Britain's head of state.

On the biggest ceremonial occasions she appears in state dresses, jewels and even a crown, but humbler public engagements are no less challenging on the wardrobe front.

Her stylists, always British, must ensure that no garment is transparent, too tight or too short, and consider possible weather conditions -- including weighting her skirt hemlines to avoid embarrassment in a gust of wind.

For most of the hundreds of public engagements she carries out every year, the queen appears in a brightly-coloured outfit with a matching hat, neat handbag and sensible, yet elegant shoes.

Before any state or Commonwealth visit, her designers study meanings attached to colours, sleeve lengths and symbols in the country, both to avoid accidental offence and to be gracious to her hosts.

For her historic visit to Ireland in May 2011, the queen wore emerald green, the country's emblematic colour, and for a reception at Dublin Castle she sported a dress embroidered with no fewer than 2,000 tiny shamrocks.

On the first visit by a British monarch since the republic gained independence, her dress was a signal as powerful as the few words of Irish with which she began her keynote speech.

But those who have grown up seeing the queen as a distinguished older lady may be unaware of the glamour of her youth.

'Elizabeth in her youth was fun, vibrant, exciting and spontaneous,' royal historian Kate Williams told AFP.

'And now we see a very different queen: she often is quite unsmiling; she's very fond of duty; she is very dignified.'

In a photograph from 1954, the year after her coronation, the queen appears in a seductive tight-fitting white lace dress by Hardy Amies, her designer for some 40 years.

During the 1950s she wore a series of romantic evening gowns with ample silk and satin skirts, many of them by Norman Hartnell, who also created dresses for her wedding in 1947 and coronation in 1953.

In the 1960s, her dresses became closer-fitting and bolder; in 1969, meeting US president Richard Nixon, she wore hot-pink silk.

'The task of making clothes for the queen is not an easy one... not that the queen has been anything other than co-operative and professional in every respect,' Amies, who died in 2003, said in a rare interview.

Amies 'understood, as have other designers working for Her Majesty, that the wardrobe can make political statements,' observed Country Life magazine, the bible of affluent rural Britons, in a special issue to mark the jubilee.

The queen's wardrobe is now the responsibility of designer Angela Kelly, the daughter of a humble dock-worker from the northwestern city of Liverpool, who joined her team of dressers in 1993 and became her personal stylist in 2002.

Kelly was behind the immaculate primrose-yellow ensemble the queen wore to Prince William's wedding to Kate Middleton last year.

She also created the white silk, satin and lace state dress with silver sequins the sovereign wears in her official diamond jubilee photographs.

Queenly fashion has inspired a raft of clothes and accessories issued for the jubilee, with corgis and tiaras in abundance as well as more subtle references to the queen's favourite colours.

Fashion iconoclast Vivienne Westwood has created a limited edition jubilee collection of dresses blending Britain's Union Jack flag with elements from the queen's own wardrobe.

The queen's grandson Prince Harry, along with many other commentators, called her outfits 'impeccable'.

Vauthier said: 'She has her own look, and it wins her respect.

'She shouldn't change a thing.'