Saturday, September 8, 2012

Alexander Wang's Spectroscopic Chic

If any New York designer is setting the agenda in modern fashion it is Alexander Wang, whose latest collection was a surgically re-constructed interpretation of the modern urban uniform that managed to be beautiful and gutsy, bizarre yet plausible - all at the same time.

Sent out on a catwalk in an industrial pier on the Hudson River on Saturday, Sept. 8, this spring 2013 was as hyper rich in novel cutting and seaming as it was restrained in its choice of color. Entirely devoid of prints, the palette was just three colors - black, white and silver - albeit taking in with ecru, cream, onyx and anthracite.

'Exotic and animalistic!' trumpeted Wang in the post-show backstage, after a finale where an octet of blond models all in white stood like chic sentries before a sudden change of lighting rendered all the outfits fluorescent.

Throughout, Wang dissected active sports clothes - T-shirts, board shorts and parkas - giving them a wonderful paneled finish that had cool architectural volume, yet never looked stiff.

'We wanted the garments almost to feel like they were floating on the body, but still holding a very strong volume,' Wang told FWD, explaining that he had used fishing lines to hold all the separate pieces together.

The show opened with arty combination of Bermuda shorts topped by tailored tuxedos and mini fracks in leather, all anchored by sexy centurion's boots. It climaxed with a pair of beautiful halter dresses - one in aluminum crocodile, the other in black - with huge front slashes and dissected necklines. Talk about flawlessly cut.

Through the clothes won applause and even cheers when veteran model Liberty Ross appeared in windbreaker and pencil skirt, before rising to a roaring crescendo for the spectroscopic finale.

'We wanted at the end for all the girls to look other worldly. Starting with a uniform and then go futuristic,' added the designer, dressed in his own typical uniform of loose black T-shirt and pants.

Wang is not one of those designers who get their inspiration from art movements or foreign travel or research into historical periods. Instead, his ideas emerge from his imagination, and his canny observation of urban lifestyle. There is no more contemporary designer in America today.



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Friday, September 7, 2012

Leisure-oriented looks hit runways at New York Fashion Week

NEW YORK (Reuters) - Fashion world trendwatchers were validated on Friday when collections by top designers Nicole Miller and Charlotte Ronson exhibited the predicted influences of casual, athletic and leisure wear.

Miller, a favorite of professional women for her wearable, stylish and confident designs, ventured into a more playful arena for spring 2013, with a dominant theme of floral prints configured in geometric shapes, and tight leggings in stretch leather or mottled prints.

The collection, which Miller dubbed 'Batteries Not Included' and was meant to suggest improbable juxtapositions, 1980s surrealist art, digital nature and sci-fi, used a palette of teal, soft greys, pink, mushroom and the ubiquitous black.

In keeping with another trend this season, hard met soft with Miller topping a white linen dress with a black leather biker jacket. Shorts, which suggested running or track shorts, were well represented, lapels were large and coat and jacket sleeves pushed up.

The collection was also heavy on tunics, which were variously rendered in silk and organza or abstract floral silk, paired with tight striped pants or stretch leather leggings.

Vests were loose, oversized and flowing, while details were evident in beaded bodices or tank tops. Texture got a nod from separates rendered in leather, and what Miller called pixilated sequin or jacquard, which she employed for tunics and dresses.

The looks were decidedly more classic, if similarly leisure-oriented, at English designer Ronson's Friday evening show. The Friday shows spoke to what Ken Downing, fashion director of Neiman Marcus, called 'relaxed chic.'

Ronson, especially popular with younger fashion mavens, showed mostly classic, highly wearable, mostly unstructured looks.

Hemlines were short, and midriffs often bare in a collection rendered in shades of soft spring green and yellow, the latter which Ronson dubbed lemonade.

But like Miller, Ronson's show emphasized shorts and rompers, and also played hard and soft elements off one another, as in a chain link lace mini-dress and mini-skirt.

She also showed several tops dubbed bralettes, which resembled sports bras, in solid or water lily print or midnight leather. A collegiate-inspired concept of varsity vests, cardigans and jackets completed the sporty looks.

There were highly feminine styles as well, many with sheer panels in gauzy chiffon. Hemlines ran short, and cutouts lent netted pullovers and draped dresses a sexy edge.

Among the bolder pieces were vinyl varsity jackets turned out in electric shades of pink or blue, as well as black.

Earlier on Friday, Bahrain-based label Noon by Noor made its New York Fashion Week debut, with socialites Nicky Hilton and Olivia Palermo sitting in the front row.

Designers, cousins and Bahrain royalty Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Haya Mohammed Al Khalifa showed long flowing silk chiffon skirts and dresses with thigh-high splits, neon pink pants suits, brocade biker jackets and gold metallic jacquards.

'Concentrating on sleek minimalist contouring, pared back separates are realized in the most luxurious fabrics,' the Noon by Noor collection notes said. 'Luxe utilitarian tailoring balances structure and fluidity.'

Fashion Week continues through the weekend, with Saturday shows by Project Runway winner Christian Siriano, Rebecca Taylor and Alex Herkovitch. Tracy Reese, Diane Von Furstenberg and Zac Posen show their collections on Sunday.

(Additional reporting by Michelle Nicholsl; Editing by Lisa Shumaker)



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Jason Wu's Peek-A-Boo Win

Now you see it, now you don't. Sweet and sexy, naughty and nice, black and white. Those are just a few of the dualities that Jason Wu demonstrated along with his range and pure talent at his Spring 2013 runway show on Friday, Sept. 7, in New York.

Wu has become known and adored for his charming feminine aesthetic and his skillfully crafted maneuvers of subtly displaying a woman's best features. This spring, Wu showed strong looks with lots of leather and sharp edges that balanced perfectly with his modus operandi. With a touch of dominatrix in the mix, Wu's combination of floral laser trims on leather skirts and sheer lace bodice panels to the dresses were perfection. Even on gentler, floral ensembles, Wu's leather collar trim and suspenders commanded a double take and would certainly be donned by the likes of a Bond girl that knows how to get what she wants.

Suffice it to say, it wouldn't be a Jason Wu show without some peplums and bows to amp up the girl-next-door factor, but truth be told, they were few and far between and done with the utmost finesse, as seen on a flat front white pencil skirt with only peplum sides, or the black silk jacquard ascot shirt. These elements complimented the mature stature of Wu's clientele.

In addition to the black and white palette, one that even stretched itself to the tiled runway, the other familiar duo of pink and blue colors for spring were a fundamental addition to the symmetry that permeated the room. The perfect nod to the dichotomy theme was the tilted mirrored backdrop the models walked toward that reflected a twin-like persona for each look.

Wu's most public claim to fame was when Michelle Obama wore a Jason Wu gown to the inauguration dinner. Since then she has been an avid fan and only time will tell this election year, how many more Jason Wu looks we will get to admire her in. For spring 2013 Wu's statement sneak-a-peek gowns in 'X-ray floral' gently become more sheer as their tulle petals make their way to the floor with each step of sophistication.

Now you see it, now you don't. The perfect way to describe Wu's peek-a-boo sentiment of dualism this season and most certainly the response we can expect to see when this collection hits stores.



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Thursday, September 6, 2012

Designer of Michelle Obama's dress to rush frock into production

NEW YORK (Reuters) - Fashion designer Tracy Reese will rush into production the dress that first lady Michelle Obama wore when she addressed the Democratic National Convention this week, Reese said on Thursday.

The sleeveless dress, which is not yet available in stores, will retail for less than $500, Reese said on NBC's 'Today' show.

The first lady's dress was made of raw silk jacquard in a 'luminescent' mix of hot pink, rust and copper, Reese said. It had an accent hemline of silver and blue.

'It was something we were planning for later, so we're trying to rush it through the cycle so that more people can get their hands on it sooner,' she said.

A spokeswoman for Reese said she did not know exactly when the dress would be available to retail consumers.

Obama, who tends to choose more affordable clothing over high-end couture, is known for boosting the profile of younger American designers when she wears their frocks. Designer Jason Wu enjoyed a huge publicity boost when she wore his one-shouldered white gown during the inaugural celebrations in 2009.

Ann Romney, the wife of Republican presidential nominee Mitt Romney, wore a red silk taffeta dress by fashion stalwart Oscar de la Renta during her speech to the Republican National Convention last month in Tampa, Florida.

Reese told the 'Today' show she had sent a selection of dresses to the first lady ahead of the Democrats' convention in Charlotte, North Carolina. But while the first lady has worn her designs on some 15 public occasions, Reese said she was taken by surprise.

'Until she stepped out on stage, we didn't know,' she said. 'She made an excellent choice.'

The New York-based designer launched her first collection in 1998 and will present her latest styles at a show on Sunday during New York's Fashion Week.

(Reporting by Barbara Goldberg and Ellen Wulfhorst; Writing by Ellen Wulfhorst; Editing by Leslie Adler)



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London Olympics inspires relaxed chic at New York Fashion Week

NEW YORK (Reuters) - Pajama styles, track pants and bomber jackets are the trends that top U.S. department store buyers expect to see on the runways at New York's Fashion Week when it starts on Thursday - a relaxed chic they say was inspired by the London Olympics.

More than 80 designers will show collections for the spring/summer 2013 season as part of the semi-annual event. Many of the shows take place at Manhattan's Lincoln Center as part of the official Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, while dozens more labels will parade their collections elsewhere in the city.

Dresses are likely to feature strongly on the runway, but buyers say this season will be all about sporty separates.

'The Olympics were probably on many designers' minds when they were designing these collections ... so we will see sporty jackets and track pants and some athletic inspirations,' said Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director Saks Fifth Avenue.

The excitement generated by the summer Olympics inspired designers to focus on comfort and ease, but while the athletes in London donned Spandex and cotton, designers will instead use luxurious materials such as leather and silk.

'It's hard to deny that everyone has been paying attention to the Olympics. We've been looking at these fit and healthy individuals and all these interesting sporty silhouettes,' said Ken Downing, fashion director of Neiman Marcus.

'But it's not the idea of wearing casual clothes in casual fabrics. It's often this movement about doing something with a relaxed sensibility, with less structure, but often doing it in a very luxe fabric,' said Downing, dubbing it 'relaxed chic.'

Sporty bomber and motorcycle jackets are expected to feature in a variety of fabrics and prints. 'It's a jacket moment,' Downing said.

Despite rocky stock markets and worries that the Euro zone financial crisis and global economy could dampen luxury spending, consumers are still willing to shop. Consumer spending makes up about 70 percent of U.S. economic activity.

'The customer is very savvy. She's willing to pay for the quality and something that looks like the price tag that's attached to it,' said Downing.

COLOR REFLECTING OPTIMISM

As the United States slowly recovers from its worst recession in decades, Sherin said customers are more thoughtful.

'That is just how people shop now. They look for items they can wear several different ways, where there's a multi-use factor that they can certainly wear more than once,' she said.

Color can grab consumers' attention, and department store buyers said they hope to see lots of it in New York.

'Fashion is reflective of and responsive to the times,' said Barneys New York Senior Fashion Director Tomoko Ogura. 'At the moment, I think people are looking for optimistic ways of dressing and infusing bright happy colors is an easy way to accomplish this.

'I expect to see soft spring shades with shocks of brighter, more saturated tones,' she said. 'Blue and ocean colors will also play a significant role in spring's color palette.'

Sak's Sherin said she expects to see shades of yellow and green and bright blue, while Neiman Marcus' Downing predicted that lace would feature prominently.

'Lace brings a lovely romantic spirit, and it gives an instant femininity to everything it's incorporated into,' Downing said. 'Designers are really paying attention to what emotionally women gravitate to. Women love lace, there's no denying it.'

When it comes to dresses, Downing says it will be a tale of two silhouettes - tight-fitting and loose cuts. Dresses remain popular because women can skip the extra, sometimes more costly, step of coordinating skirts or pants with a blouse or T-shirt.

But what expected runway trends may not work?

'Head-to-toe pajama dressing,' said Saks Sherin. 'It needs to be broken up.

'In the real world we need to show women how they can incorporate a piece into their look. Not head to toe, unless you're Hugh Hefner,' she said.

Fashion Week in New York is followed by events in London, Paris and Milan.

(Reporting by Michelle Nichols, Editing by Ellen Wulfhorst and Jackie Frank)



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Tuesday, September 4, 2012

H&M to ban PFCs by 2013

Swedish-based high-street clothing retailer H&M announced a total ban of PFCs across its supply chain from January 1, 2013.

As of January 1, every item produced by H&M will be PFC-free, announced the retailer on September 4.

Perfluorinated compounds are household pollutants found in the protective coatings of packaging products, clothes, textiles, furniture, carpet, non-stick cookware, household cleaners and cosmetics.

PFCs are harmful to the environment and also to human health.

H&M adds that one of its objectives is to reduce the use and impact of hazardous chemicals in its products, in the apparel and footwear supply chain.



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Monday, September 3, 2012

Leather jackets, capes and backpacks among key trends for autumn

Lucile Costey, who focuses on women's accessories for Paris-based style consulting agency Univers Mode, analyzes the upcoming fall-winter trends, including the surefire comeback of the leather motorcycle jacket.

Relaxnews: What are the three must-have items of clothing for women this fall?
Lucile Costey: Four items are set to be the 'must-haves' of women's wardrobes this fall: a large loose-fit sweater; a cape or a round-shoulder coat; plus a skirt, top or coat in guipure lace or broderie anglaise. The leather motorcycle jacket is also an essential fashion item this September.

R: What are the must-have accessories for the upcoming season?
LC: Women should look at 1950s-retro-style box bags, with both a flap and a turnlock, and perhaps a long chain strap. The backpack will also be in, albeit in chic versions, as will satchels inspired by schoolbags and saddlebags, but in a more feminine style. Several accessories complete the array, starting with a psychedelic print scarf as well as shoes in a material that looks like animal skin with a touch of fur or crocodile. As for jewelry, cuff bracelets and bejeweled belts are also set to star.

R: What about footwear? Can women keep on wearing their espadrilles and wedges? Or should they invest in new pairs?
LC: Espadrilles are ok at the start of the new season, to bask in the last rays of sunlight or for a belated vacation. But they'll have to be put away quickly! Wedges will still work for fall if they're made of wood, leather or rubber, but shapes and details will have to be more wintry.

R: What's new in that area?
LC: The strongest trends will revolve around derbies, mocassins or slipper-style shoes, heeled loafers and shoes with graphic cut-outs.

R: And the pieces that should be put out of rotation this season?
LC: Without a doubt, neon-colored tops, because they are just too summery, and bomber jackets in animal skins. As for footwear, ballet flats will be out of fashion, before being completely out of the picture by next summer. So no need to invest in a new pair.



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