Swiss chemical process makes eco-friendly jeans

It takes lots of water and chemicals to make a pair of jeans, and environmentally conscious clothing makers caught on years ago to the need to make more sustainable versions these popular pants.

But a Swiss chemical company said Tuesday its process for making eco-friendly jeans could streamline those efforts, saving enough water to cover the needs of 1.7 million people per year if one quarter of the world's jean-makers started using it.

The dying technology, known as Advanced Denim, was described at the 16th annual Green Chemistry & Engineering Conference, sponsored by the American Chemical Society's Green Chemistry Institute.

Miguel Sanchez, a textile engineer at Clariant, said the technique can produce a pair of jeans using up to 92 percent less water and up to 30 percent less energy than conventional denim manufacturing methods.

Traditional techniques may require as many as 15 dyeing vats and a host of chemicals, while Advanced Denim uses one vat and a new kind of liquid sulfur dye that requires just one sugar-based reducing agent, he said.

The process, if used on a wide scale, could save 2.5 billion gallons of water per year, prevent the release of 8.3 million cubic meters of wastewater and save up to 220 million kilowatt hours of electricity, he added.

'Advanced Denim wants to go beyond the technologies that are today considered standard for obtaining denim material,' Sanchez said.

Many other companies, including denim-giant Levi-Strauss, already make their own versions of eco-friendly jeans that use less water, are made with organic cotton, or use natural dyes. These products remain a niche market, however.

Jeans, particularly those that are distressed to appear as if they have been worn, have come under fire in recent years for wasting water, overusing harmful chemicals and using sandblasting that can endanger workers' health.



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Savile Row tailors open doors into exclusive world

LONDON (Reuters) - Michael Skinner and a tiny coterie of colleagues are intimately familiar with the physical details of rock stars, royalty and some of Britain's most famous historical figures.

But don't expect him to start dishing out the gossip, because absolute discretion is a professional hallmark of the tailors on Savile Row in London, whose customers over some two centuries of service stretch from famed military hero Horatio Nelson to Michael Jackson and Britain's Prince William.

The now master cutter at Dege & Skinner collected one of his most favorite anecdotes at the tender age of 18, when he was given the task of dressing then British Prime Minister Winston Churchill for Queen Elizabeth's 1953 coronation.

'It was an amazing thing...being at Westminster Abbey and actually having to dress the great man,' Skinner told Reuters on a visit to the Row in honor of London's first ever standalone event for men's fashion over the weekend.

Skinner has spent a lifetime on Savile Row, a street known around the world for the bespoke clothing made by a handful of traditional firms such as Dege & Skinner, Gieves & Hawkes, H. Huntsman & Sons and Henry Poole & Co as well as modern designers like Ozwald Boateng and E. Tautz.

The Beatles, Michael Jackson, Queen Elizabeth as well as Admiral Horatio Nelson and the man who defeated Napoleon at Waterloo, the Duke of Wellington, have all had clothes, robes, suits and military uniforms from the tailors gathered here.

Skinner who runs one of the last remaining family-owned businesses left on Savile Row with his son William, opened their showrooms and workshops to the public as part of last weekend's first London Collections Men fashion event.

'We're not a sort of hocus pocus bunch of people behind frosted windows. We're actually pretty decent people who do a pretty decent job doing our damnedest to make really nice clothes and that's what gives us the buzz,' Skinner said.

'It is exciting to be part of the fashion week and to showcase Savile Row and what we do as a trade in terms of the craft industry, making clothes in the time-honored fashion for the individual,' William Skinner said.

Two-piece suits from the country's top craftsmen in men's clothing start from 3,000 pounds ($4,719), but customers who may be daunted by the eye-watering prices for bespoke clothing from a Savile Row tailor have some options.

Dege & Skinner provides many alternative methods of payment to encourage people to buy on Savile Row, added Michael Skinner.

'We've always had a policy of doing everything we can to help each individual and we have means of extending credit, we have ways of paying by bank order, special offers for young officers in the forces to buy civilian clothes which we've now extended to young people for their first suit.'

His father William said that one of the selling points of Savile Row is that its tailors offer clothes that are timeless, because they are made just for you.

'When you're spending the money that people do on our clothes, then you don't want it to fall out of fashion in six months time, you want something special. And that's why they come to us,' he said.

Gieves & Hawkes Bespoke Cutter Richard Lawson's workshop displays an impressive collection of brown paper patterns, each containing the specific measurements of customers.

The company's archive includes pieces created for Nelson, who settled his tailoring bill just before he was killed at the naval Battle of Trafalgar as well as Waterloo victor Wellington. The firm is famous for its military tailoring services to the British Army and the Royal Navy.

A heavily embroidered black and gold jacket for late singer Michael Jackson on display in the company's showroom cost £20,000 ($31,330) alone to make.

Lawson, who has worked on the Row for nearly five years, said the greatest joy he gets out of his job is when the suit he has made for his customer fits perfectly.

'When you put it on the chap's shoulders and literally, it just slots on like that and the customer straight away starts feeling like he's wearing it, you cannot replace that feeling,' he told Reuters.

'It makes up for all the other stresses that go on when things don't go quite as smoothly or things are going wrong. It's a great part of the job.'

Getting an apprenticeship on London's most exclusive street for tailoring is competitive as there is a lot of interest in joining the trade, said Lawson.

'A lot of it is do with the luck of being in the right place at the right time when that apprenticeship position comes up and Savile Row has a real buzz about it now,' Lawson said.

'It's a beautiful little community, we all work on the same row, we know each other, and as I say, once you're on the inside, it's a real family atmosphere we have.'

(Additional Reporting by Cindy Martin, editing by Paul Casciato)



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Adidas cancels release of "shackled" sneakers

NEW YORK (Reuters) - After a public outcry, Adidas AG canceled the release of an upcoming sneaker model that featured plastic orange shackles attached to the shoes' heels.

In a June 14 Facebook post, the shoe company unveiled the 'JS Roundhouse Mids,' purple and gray sneakers with attached short shackles that bore the company's name. The shoes had been set for release in August.

'Got a sneaker game so hot you lock your kicks to your ankles?' read a caption on the picture post revealing the shoes.

A storm of angry comments erupted on the Facebook page, including some accusing the company of racism in the shoes' design. The German sportswear maker canceled the shoes on Monday afternoon.

On Tuesday, however, the original post could still be found on the 'Adidas Originals' Facebook page.

In a Huffington Post blog post on Tuesday, the Rev. Jesse Jackson called the shoes 'offensive, appalling and insensitive,' saying they were reminiscent of slaves and prisoners.

Speaking on CNN Tuesday morning, Jackson said they were 'a gross insult' and said Adidas was insensitive in designing the sneakers and that the company only canceled the shoes in light of a potential boycott.

Adidas said in a statement that it apologized 'if people are offended by the design' and said it was withdrawing plans to make the shoes available in the marketplace.

'The design of the JS Roundhouse Mid is nothing more than the designer Jeremy Scott's outrageous and unique take on fashion and has nothing to do with slavery,' it said.

The 'shackled' sneakers are Adidas' second controversy in two days. On Monday, it was sued by a man claiming that the company's adiPure shoes, which mimic the effect of running barefoot and advertise a decrease in risk of injury, actually increase the risk for foot damage.

(This story has been refiled to correct that Adidas AG , not U.S. unit, canceled shoe)

(Reporting By Joseph O'Leary; Editing by Cynthia Johnston and Dan Grebler)



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UK's Royal Ascot redefines concept of fashion police

LONDON (Reuters) - Ladies, forget those flimsy fascinators and get yourself a proper hat: one that has a base of at least 4 inches in diameter.

So says a new dress code coming into force at this year's Royal Ascot, the annual horse-race meeting attended by Britain's Queen Elizabeth and a highlight of high society's summer season.

'Strapless, off-the-shoulder, halter-neck, spaghetti straps and dresses with a strap of less than 1 inch (2.5cm) are not permitted,' says the dress code for lady race-goers lucky enough to have tickets for the exclusive Royal Enclosure.

The document states that ladies' dresses should be 'of modest length', defined as falling just above the knee or lower, while gentlemen should wear grey or black morning dress, which must include a top hat, waistcoat and tie -- but no cravat.

Fashion has always been a feature of Royal Ascot and spotting the most daring outfits is as much of an attraction as watching the races. But the new dress code suggests organizers felt some race-goers were becoming rather too risqué.

They have trained a team of 'dress code assistants' who will stop transgressors from entering the enclosure and supply them with emergency items to bring their outfits into line -- waistcoats, ties, pashmina shawls and the like.

The British media were quick to dig out photos of women at Royal Ascot in previous years sporting short or otherwise revealing dresses that would fall foul of the sartorial squad.

Particular attention was focused on the issue of fascinators, a type of headpiece attached to women's heads with clips or pins and often adorned with feathers, lace or netting.

VERY GOOD LEGS

Fascinators have long been a popular item at smart British weddings, but they shot to greater fame after Kate Middleton, then the future wife of the queen's grandson Prince William, wore one during her first official engagement with her fiancé.

The couple married in April last year and the now Duchess of Cambridge has made her mark on the global fashion map -- yet her favored fascinators have been banned from the Royal Enclosure.

'The most beautiful girl in the world, Kate Middleton, has skirts halfway up her thigh and usually wears fascinators,' said Jilly Cooper, best-selling author of racy novels with names like 'Riders' and 'Jump!'.

'But I think you've got to have very, very good legs,' Cooper told BBC Radio 4, suggesting that Royal Ascot organizers were quite right to regulate for those women not endowed with legs as attractive as those of the duchess.

The chief executive of Ascot dismissed suggestions that the dress code might come across as an attempt to restore archaic, aristocratic decorum, as opposed to a more provocative style of dress favored by some people from less exalted backgrounds.

'It isn't a question of elitism and not being modern in a world where there is less and less requirement to dress smartly - far from it,' said Charles Barnett.

'We want to see modern and stylish dress at Royal Ascot, just within the parameters of formal wear,' he said.

There will be no excuses for those who get it wrong. All ticket holders were sent reminders of the new dress code including 'style guides' with photos giving example of appropriate looks.

You have been warned.

(Editing by Paul Casciato)



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Watch: the making-of the Louis Vuitton runway-inspired campaign

Two weeks before Paris Haute Couture week (July 1-5), French luxury accessories label Louis Vuitton has released a behind-the-scenes video for its new Fall/Winter 2012-2013 campaign.

Shot by American fashion photographer Steven Meisel, the campaign seeks to capture the mood of a runway show and has a travel theme.

In addition to showing how the campaign was created, the video features Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton collections artistic director, explaining the choices behind the visuals.



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Men's Fashion: 1920s dandy and military among top trends at London Collections

Labels including Paul Smith, Christopher Kane and Jonathan Saunders were just some of the big names taking part in the inaugural London Collections: Men event June 15-17. Ahead of the upcoming Milan and Paris menswear fashion weeks, discover key Spring 2013 trends to have emerged from the British capital's first dedicated menswear weekend here, including recycled parkas and leather shorts.

Great Gatsby

While womenswear labels including Gucci and Fendi may have heralded the revival of 1920s-inspired fashion with their Spring/Summer 2012 shows, the trend looks set to continue well into 2013 for gentlemen too. Labels including Richard Nicoll and Hardy Amies London embraced the Great Gatsby aesthetic at London Collections: Men, with pocket squares and tasselled loafers in abundance. Spanish-owned label Hackett also harked back to the period, with cream-lined peaked lapel suits and white brogues among the highlights.

Military jackets

When it came to casual wear, the prominence of the bomber looks set to continue for Spring 2013, with the likes of Nicole Farhi and Jonathan Saunders favoring the style. The latter added texture to the trend too, offering bombers in green and black bonded pinstripe fabric, while James Long enhanced bombers with mandarin collars.

Meanwhile, all attention was on the classic parka jacket at Christopher Raeburn, a designer known for recycling military textiles. Highlights included a khaki nylon parka made from re-appropriated military sleeping bags, as well as sheer and a silver lamé version of the coat.

Smart shorts

Tailored shorts were another recurring trend, with the likes of Richard James and James Long favoring the style. The latter offered dark pleated and panelled high-waisted creations in leather and plaid, while Lou Dalton also kept things respectable with well-tailored shorts that fell just below the knee.

Feeling blue

In terms of color, oranges and reds were prominent at many runway shows, but blue was ubiquitous at presentations ranging from Rake to Pringle of Scotland. Electric blue was the order of the day at Oliver Spencer, while a duck egg-blue trench coat stole the show at E Tautz. Meadham Kirchhoff, who recreated the aftermath of a wild party for the rather surreal presentation of their newly revived menswear line, opted for sheer purple-hinted creations -- accessorized with bright blue-dyed hair and eyebrows.



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Pringle of Scotland's Poignant Finale

The Pringle of Scotland latest runway show was very much the fashion equivalent of a dead-rubber match, i.e., a game in which the result cannot affect the final outcome. This spring 2013 collection, presented Sunday, June 17, in London, was designed by Alistair Carr, news of whose departure from the Scottish brand had broken this spring.

Howver, this was a stylish departing gesture by Carr, a one-time Balenciaga alumni, who cannot really be faulted for Pringle's recent financial troubles. The house's owner, the Fang family of Hong Kong, was forced to inject $17 million last year into the 195-year-old brand after the Scottish knitwear specialist kept bleeding losses.

For his farewell, Carr served up a fashion repast of artfully spun knits, using the house's signature Argyle pattern in massive designs on flowing sweaters and micro patterns in socks.

Blair cuts a neat bomber jacket, using the technique well in waxy leather versions trimmed in stretch wool, or in multi-paneled versions with alternating leather and wool sections.

Across a turquoise fake grass runway in The Hospital Club, a private members club funded by Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen in Covent Garden where night shows in debut London Collections: Men were staged, the models marched in this season's best footwear. Brothel-creepers met cricket boots meet loafers in these great new footwear looks.

Carr also sent out a new Pringle men's twin set though composed of a cardigan with a soft collar sports shirt. Made in honeycomb optic materials, these all looked great, as did some padded shiny denim jackets in ecru and white.

Yet after this polished performance, there was that poignant moment when Carr took his bow, waving shyly, quitting a job that most critics felt he did not deserve to lose.



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