Friday, February 8, 2013

Tailored looks get fresh update on New York fashion runways

NEW YORK (Reuters) - Tailored clothes for fall and winter are turning away from the traditional as designers at New York's Fashion Week add twists and tucks to give time-honored looks an up-to-date image.

Sleek wool topcoats and jackets took center stage at Friday's show by Yigal Azrouel, among the designers showing their latest collections during the city's semi-annual fashion extravaganza.

Nearly 100 designers are showing at the official Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Manhattan's Lincoln Center, while others are showing at an array of venues around the city.

The Israeli-born Azrouel, who is based in New York and has been showing his line at Fashion Week for more than a decade, gave his tailored looks a kick by slicing the sleeves and slashing the backs with sparkling silver accent zippers.

Kenneth Cole, absent from New York's Fashion Week for seven years, made his return with layers of tailored vests, tunics and blazers.

Cole's slouchy pleated trousers were tucked into knee-high boots, and sleeves slipped into wide, elbow-length industrial-inspired leather gloves.

Colors were rich and dark at Azrouel and Cole - both designers stuck largely to jet black, deep burgundy, slate gray and warm oak brown.

Designer Chadwick Bell hewed to deep tones of plum, midnight blue, emerald green and pearl gray as well in his straight slit skirts, boxy jackets and loose-fitting trousers.

But the New York-based Bell made severe knee-length dresses eye-catching with intricate folds and tucks and lightened his somber line with a dash of orange.

Orange made a splash at the show by Sally LaPointe, who used the bright hue, along with pink, as an accent against deep blues, black, beige and grays.

The New York-based LaPointe sneaked in skin-revealing cutouts at the waist of her dresses, topped with boxy jackets with oversized sleeves.

Fashion Week continues through Thursday with shows by Diane von Furstenberg, Tracy Reese, Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren.

(Editing by Peter Cooney)

Travel Postcard: 48 hours in New York during Fashion Week

NEW YORK (Reuters) - New York's Mercedes Benz Fashion Week kicked off on Thursday and will include hundreds of designers showing their Fall/Winter 2013 collections during the event at Lincoln Center and venues around the city.

The event, which runs through February 14, attracts 232,000 people to New York City, which estimates that millions be spent in the restaurants and hotels during Fashion Week.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge show how to make the most of a short visit to the city and where to find good food, fun and fashion.

FRIDAY

6 p.m. - After settling into your hotel, head to the Empire Hotel at 44 West 63rd Street and enjoy a cocktail on the roof and soak in the city views. During Fashion Week, you never know who you might run in to. (www.empirehotelnyc.com)

7:30 p.m. - Head across the street to Lincoln Center to see a show. Lincoln Center a cultural center in the city and home to The Metropolitan Opera, New York City Ballet and the New York Philharmonic orchestra.

Twice a year, in February and September, Lincoln Center hosts New York Fashion Week when the people-watching in the square is brilliant and where your style can draw the attention of the dozens of fashion photographers roaming the area.

To see what is on the Lincoln Center go to www.lincolncenter.org

10:30 p.m. - Stop for dinner near Lincoln Center at Bar Boulud, at 1900 Broadway, between 63rd and 64th streets. It is one of several New York City restaurants belonging to three Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud. (www.danielnyc.com/barboulud.html)

Dozens of restaurants around Lincoln Square take part in 'Fashion Plate Prix Fixe' during Fashion Week, offering special three-course lunches and dinners. A full list of participating restaurants can be found at www.lincolnsquarebid.org/news/view/fashion-plate-prix-fixe-february-2013

SATURDAY

10 a.m. - Enjoy a coffee and Mimosa cocktail with brunch at Morandi (www.morandiny.com), at 211 Waverly Place in the West Village, a favorite with celebrities in New York. It is also just a couple of streets from the fictional apartment of 'Sex and the City' fashionista Carrie Bradshaw.

12 p.m. - Go shopping along Bleecker Street between 7th Avenue and 8th Avenue in the West Village, where you will find labels including Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Jimmy Choo and Ralph Lauren. Pick up a cupcake at Magnolia Bakery at 401 Bleecker Street(www.magnoliabakery.com)

4 p.m. - Get a manicure at Spa Belles on 326 Bleecker Street (www.spabelles.com/bleecker.php), and then get your hair done at Blow (www.blowpro.com) on 342 W. 14th Street, to be ready for a night out on the town.

6 p.m. - Enjoy cocktails at the bar at the top of The Standard Hotel at 848 Washington Street, which has amazing views across the Hudson River to New Jersey and of New York City - even from the bathroom! (www.standardhotels.com/high-line)

8 p.m. - Dine at Buddakan, 75 9th Avenue, in the Meatpacking District. You will recognize the long table in the grand main dining room from a key scene in the first 'Sex and the City' movie - a dinner the night before Carrie's wedding to Mr Big. (www.buddakannyc.com/buddakan.html)

11 p.m. - If you feel like dancing off your meal, go to Chelsea to check out Avenue at 116 10th Avenue (www.avenue-newyork.com) or 1 Oak on 453 West 17th Street (www.1oaknyc.com), which are both popular venues for Fashion Week after-parties.

SUNDAY

11:30 a.m. - New Yorkers love brunch on the weekend, but they don't eat early. Try out Beauty and Essex, 146 Essex Street, on Manhattan's Lower East Side. The entrance to this two-storey restaurant is hidden in the back of a pawn shop. (www.beautyandessex.com)

1 p.m. - While the established designers are showing their collections uptown at Lincoln Center, check out what New York City's young designers have to offer at The Market on Bleecker Street. (www.themarketnyc.com/themarketnyc/WELCOME_to_TheMarketNYC_159_Bleecker_Street.html)

Or head to Brooklyn to see the designers at the Brooklyn Flea, which is currently housed in the beautiful former Williamsburg Savings Bank. (www.brooklynflea.com/markets)

7 p.m. - After a hectic weekend of fun and fashion, enjoy a relaxed glass of wine and small plates for dinner at Gottino at 52 Greenwich Avenue in Greenwich Village. (www.ilmiogottino.com)

(Reporting by Michelle Nichols; editing by Patricia Reaney and Marguerita Choy)

Thursday, February 7, 2013

Move over Yorkie, New York pet fashion going to the (big) dogs

NEW YORK (Reuters) - Ignored for years by the pet fashion industry and left to dwell in the shadows of tiny dogs in tutus and tiaras, large dogs are finally loping onto the high couture catwalk.

What are they wearing? The chunky prints and large patterned fabrics that would overwhelm smaller dogs, as well as camouflage fleece hoodies, jean jackets and, yes, even ostrich feathers.

Bigger, bulkier dogs are growing more popular, especially in trend-setting New York City, where the Labrador and bulldog gained ground on the list of favorite canines last year, according to the American Kennel Club.

Muscled out of the top spot was the Yorkshire terrier and pushed back even farther was the miniature poodle, small dogs that have long strutted in Ralph Lauren and Roberto Cavalli designs and labels from Barneys, Henri Bendel and other high-end stores.

For big dogs, the naked truth has been that plus-size canine couture was almost nowhere to be found.

Now, the Fashion Institute of Technology, which offers a professional certificate program in pet product design and marketing, is stocking classrooms with dog dressmaker forms from tiny to huge, said Joan Volpe, managing coordinator of the school whose graduates include Calvin Klein, Norma Kamali and Michael Kors.

As bigger dogs grew in popularity, the industry responded.

'Every dog today needs boots. Every dog needs a raincoat. Every dog needs a sweater,' she said.

Pet fashion is the nexus of 'Ruff!' and cuff, and nowhere is that better illustrated than in New York City in February, when the world famous Westminster Dog Show and equally renowned Fashion Week occur simultaneously.

More than 78 million dogs live as pets in the United States, up from 53 million two decades ago, according to American Pet Products.

Lavishing love on their furriest family member, 15 percent of pet owners have been buying duds for their dogs in recent years, and canine apparel sales remained steady even through the recent economic downturn, the APP's latest survey showed.

For plus-sized pooches and designers who cater to them, PawVogue.com is a website devoted to canine couture that urges online visitors to share names of designers for large dogs.

'Every human is not a size 6, and every dog is not 5 lbs (2 kg),' said the website.

'EVEN BIG DOGS LIKE TO LOOK PRETTY'

Consider French Fry and Tater Tot, two Wheaten terriers weighing 48 pounds (22 kg) and 28 pounds (13 kg) whose owner, Sandy Thompson of Buford, Georgia, wants her 'babies' to wear couture.

Her dogs have 40 outfits from canine designers as far away as Spain.

'Even big dogs like to look pretty,' said Thompson.

French Fry and Tater Tot appear at pet fashion shows to benefit women's shelters and animal rescue centers.

At a charity event next month, Tater Tot will be wearing a plum silk gown with a broach and ostrich feathers and later appear in a frock of rainbow-hued fabric imported from India with ribbons and petticoats. French Fry's vests will coordinate with Tater Tot's gowns.

Thompson declined to reveal what she paid for the pieces by designer Linda Higgins of Chattanooga, Tennessee, but estimated they would sell online for $1,000 per dress and $700 per vest.

Smaller price tags for big dog fashions are offered by www.PJNYdogwear.com, launched by FIT student designer Karen Varley, who donates 10 percent of her proceeds to animal shelters like the one where she found her pitbull mix, Polly Jean.

The dog sits still as Varley, unable to find a canine mannequin big enough, drapes her with pinned fabric pieces to create new fashions such as a faux fleece-lined jean jacket, her most popular item, which sells for $43.

'I just felt there was an emptiness in my life,' said Varley, 44, a flight attendant who decided against having children. 'Polly Jean has brought so much happiness. Gosh, I can't even put into words how wonderful she has made my life.'

(Editing by Doina Chiacu)

Book Talk: New book lifts veil on fashion designer Balenciaga

NEW YORK (Reuters) - When author Mary Blume moved from New York to Paris in the early 1960's, a friend introduced her to Florette Chelot, the top saleswoman for fashion designer Cristobal Balenciaga.

The friendship that developed with Chelot was the initial impetus for Blume's new book, 'The Master of Us All,' which borrows its title from designer Christian Dior's description of Balenciaga.

The Spanish-born designer, who was one of the world's top couturiers for decades, opened shop in Paris in 1936. Chelot, one of his first employees, worked there until Balenciaga abruptly closed his operations in 1968. The designer died four years later in 1972, aged 77, and his label was not revived until 1986.

Despite Balenciaga's renown as a meticulous designer whose clothes were worn by royalty, socialites and Hollywood icons, he remained a mysterious figure.

Blume, a former columnist for the International Herald Tribune, spoke to Reuters about the designer, his business and how her conversations with Chelot more than 40 years after meeting her helped to reveal Balenciaga's personality.

Q: You knew one of the women featured in the book, Chelot, but what made you want to write about Balenciaga?

A: 'After the house closed, I saw Florette very infrequently. (But) in the last few years of her life, she spent more time in Paris, and perhaps ... when you get to that age, you think more about what you've been doing. She realized she had been a witness to every minute of the house of Balenciaga in Paris.

'Everybody agrees (Balenciaga) was the greatest designer of the second half of 20th century, but he is also the most unknown. His character is always very cloudy on account of never accepting to see people, so he became known as this boring monk. So this seemed pretty intractable. But ... if you look at him, in the workplace, and you see the place as a workplace rather than as a cathedral or a shrine, then something comes out.'

Q: What did you learn about Balenciaga's personality that surprised you?

A: 'So many people said he had a very good sense of humor, and liked to smile, liked to joke, because he does seem very austere and strict. It's a strange thing. He was so kind to the models, and so awful, frequently, to the vendeuses (saleswomen).

'I managed to speak to a few of his friends, and ... they all seemed to agree about his charm and his humor, and the fact that he really basically only talked about fashion, but not in a gossipy way. The person who helped a great deal was (designer Hubert de) Givenchy, who, I think, spoke about him very well.'

Q: Can you tell me about the fashion shows of the time?

A: '(My friend and I) just wandered in and we must have been a strange pair - palpably not potential clients. But you just went in. The other day I went to the Chanel collection here, and what a difference, all the guards, and they show only once, not every day.

'But it's a show, a real show ... and they weren't before. They were just girls marching out, turning and going back. It happened every afternoon for a month or so after the real (clients) had been there.'

Q: After his death, do you think his family felt conflicted about the Balenciaga business becoming a larger industry, more a brand, instead of about Balenciaga the man?

A: 'I don't know how conflicted they felt. I'm not criticizing them for what they did, to continue it even though they must have guessed that he would hate that ... but if they're feeling conflicted now it's because they sold too soon. And that sounds like a mean comment, I don't mean it as such. (But) suddenly the name is alive again, and they have nothing to do with it.'

Q. Alexander Wang, the new creative director of Balenciaga, is known for being extremely outgoing, and for his downtown Manhattan style. What do you think of his selection?

A: '(Fashion writer) Suzy Menkes made a very good point when she wrote ... that he speaks perfect Mandarin. Since Balenciaga has 20 some odd outlets in China and is hoping to have more, this is a help. It'll be interesting to see what he does, because I don't think it'll be Frenchified.'

(Reporting By Erin Geiger Smith; Editing by Patricia Reaney and David Brunnstrom)

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Gildan raises full-year revenue forecast

(Reuters) - Canadian clothing maker Gildan Activewear Inc raised its full-year earnings forecast after posting a profit for its first quarter, driven by sales in its printwear business.

The company now expects full-year revenue to slightly exceed its previous forecast of about $2.1 billion, while backing its earnings outlook of between $2.60 and $2.70 per share.

Gildan is a top supplier to screenprinting companies, which print designs on its T-shirts and other basic clothing items. The company also makes private-label and branded socks sold by mass-market retailers.

But the company has been shifting away from the private-label business, and has been spending to market its own brands such as Gildan and Gold Toe.

Gildan reported a net income of $35.3 million, or 29 cents per share, for the quarter ended December 30, compared with a loss of $46.1 million, or 38 cents per share, a year earlier.

The company, which holds the U.S. sock licenses for Under Armour Inc and New Balance, said net sales rose 39 percent to $420.8 million.

Analysts on average had expected earnings of 30 cents per share on revenue of $398 million.

Montreal-based Gildan's printwear segment sales rose 65.6 percent, while sales in branded apparel rose 13 percent.

Shares of Gildan, which has a market value of about C$4.46 billion, closed at C$36.55 on the Toronto Stock Exchange on Wednesday. The stock has gained about 70 percent of its value in the last one year.

(Reporting by Sandhya Vijayan and Allison Martell; Editing by Sriraj Kalluvila)

Beyonce's Super Bowl leather has PETA in a lather

LOS ANGELES (TheWrap.com) - Beyonce Knowles can't seem to leave the house without catching flak from somebody these days.

First, the 'Halo' singer was criticized last month for her less-than-live performance of the National Anthem at Barack Obama's inauguration.

Now, Knowles has attracted the ire of animal-rights group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) for wearing leather during her halftime performance at Sunday's Super Bowl.

According to the New York Times (which - who knew? - keeps track of such things), Knowles' outfit, which was conceived by New York designer Rubin Singer - consisted of a cropped leather motorcycle, matched with a leather bodysuit made with strips of python and iguana.

Knowles' use of all that animal hide, surprisingly, did not sit well with PETA, who accused the singer of being out of touch with shifting fashion trends.

'We would take a bet that if Beyoncé watched our video exposés ... she'd probably not want to be seen again in anything made of snakes, lizards, rabbits, or other animals who died painfully,' PETA said in a statement. 'Today's fashions are trending toward humane vegan options, and Beyoncé's Super Bowl outfit missed the mark on that score.'

Of course, Knowles could have ditched the offending outfit altogether - at which point she'd have the Parents Television Council hounding her instead of PETA.

PETA did, however, show some love for Baltimore Ravens linebacker Terrell Suggs - even though he covets a leather-covered ball for a living.

'The game was great, however, and so is Baltimore Ravens linebacker and yesterday's Super Bowl champion Terrell Suggs, who has just joined PETA in protesting the fur industry by starring in PETA's 'Ink, Not Mink' campaign,' the organization added.

A spokeswoman for Knowles has not yet responded to TheWrap's request for comment because, really, if you were her, would you willingly place yourself in the middle of this?

Designer Galliano suing former employer Dior in French court

PARIS (Reuters) - Fashion designer John Galliano, fired from French couture house Dior in 2011 after an anti-Semitic outburst in public, has begun wrongful dismissal proceedings against his former employer.

Galliano, a talented and theatrical designer once at the top of the fashion world, will argue that he was fired 'without real and serious cause,' his lawyer, Chantal Giraud-van Gaver, told Reuters.

Earlier this week, a Paris labor court ruled that it had the right to hear the case. Dior, part of luxury goods group LVMH, will have two weeks to accept or contest that decision.

The court will not hear the case before October or November, Giraud-van Gaver added.

The once-stellar career of Galliano, 52, went south after the British designer was caught on camera making anti-Semitic remarks in a Paris cafe in 2011. A French court handed out a 6,000-euro ($8,100) suspended fine to Galliano in 2011 after he was found guilty of anti-Semitic behavior.

He has since apologized and last month issued a statement in which he said he has been in recovery from alcoholism for the past two years.

In January, Galliano did a three-week residency with Oscar de la Renta's New York studio before New York Fashion Week.

Giraud-van Gaver disputed that her client was seeking 15 million euros in damages, as some media have reported. She said Galliano was seeking damages, but would not specify a number.

LVMH have declined to comment on the case.

(Reporting By Chine Labbe. Writing by Alexandria Sage)