Hackett, a brand that bills itself as providing essential British kit, produced exactly that sort of fashion in the first major runway show of the debut season of London Collections: Men.
Staged in the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden on Friday, June 15, this spring 2013 collection neatly encapsulated the considerable strengths of British men's style.
Presented with plenty of dandified pep and entrepreneur's energy, what worked best in the show was above all the Great Gatsby opening, in particular a sleek cream combo of cardigan jacket, double-breasted vest and pleated pants.
The other smart plays were the kicky color combinations, in particular powder blue linen suits with navy furnishings, or khaki blazers paired with blood red pants and flat golfer caps. Overall, the Impressionist color palette of dark pastels looked impressive, particularly in the show's snazziest items - short double-breasted linen jackets with double chalk stripes. Accessorized by bright paisley scarves and anchored by leather brogues without any socks, this was a polished performance by Hackett.
'I wanted to show that Hackett is a brand that is moving forward,' designer Michael Stewart said, adding that he was 'very keen' to dispel 'certain misconceptions.'
'Sometimes people ted to view us as a little fusty, which is simply not the case,' said Stewart, dressed, ironically, in a natty gray suit that was better than anything seen on his catwalk.
A finale of a score of bowler-hatted city gents in various classic suits - from windowpane check and chalk stripe to solid gray and navy pinstripe - added to the sense of accomplishment. Hackett might well make an essential kit, but this show lacked effervescence and, more importantly, elan. Stewart really needs to take a few more risks.
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