Friday, September 21, 2012

Etro's Eastern Delight

Stepping out of the box can be a nervy but liberating experience, which is what the latest catwalk show by Etro felt like, seeing that this spring 2013 collection was very much a new riff on the Milan house's DNA.

In a season dominated by patchwork prints, Etro - the luxury Italian print label par excellence - boldly moved into new terrain with Orientalist imagery and a modernist take on society host hic. Eastern fauna and flora replaced the classical paisley that is Etro's signature.

Instead, designer Veronica Etro insisted on exotic hand-painted prints, deliberately eschewing the easy call of Photoshop assemblages or found imagery from Tumblr - an important trend elsewhere.

'I think if you don't take risks you never grow, so that's why risks are needed. In fact, obligatory,' Etro told FWD, after letting her print makers run wild. Everything from mega butterflies to geckos cavorted across her fabrics.

Etro is not the only house looking East - Prada did the night before - though the house's take was far more risqu?; especially all the billowing silk dresses - cut off the shoulder or open-shouldered in a sexy yet always polished silhouette.

Though the key item in this show, staged Friday, Sept. 21, in Milan, was the kimono. Cut short as if for boudoir or used with black and white tuxedo style panels and lapels. Like this nervy show, they were suggestive yet never cheap.



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